Mushkin goes to Belfast 7: The Day of the Dead

Sounds creepy, compared to it’s Spanish equivalent seems almost wrong to maintain such a connotation. Far from linking the Day of the Dead celebration with a dark background this is one of the few days darkness completely disappears to give in to the joy of celebrating those who already left this material world of us. Instead of moping through memories the living offer their beloved dead with symbolic tokens of their previous life: their favourite drink, food, pictures, toys, personal belongings; all contribute to the shrines set up all over the country in different fashions, styles, sizes. From the monumental offerings in Patzcuaro or the central square in Mexico City, to the humble altars in wooden huts in San Luis Potosi.

The bright yellow and purple of Cempasuchitl flower takes over the dark normality in graveyards across Mexico; millions of candles lead the way. The emptiness turns into crowds as hundreds of thousands of people visit their beloved in their final resting place. Not a sad face to be found; only a strange happy nostalgia invading the memories and prayers of those who attend. It is believed that on the All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day, 1^st and 2^nd of November, it is easier for the deceased to come and visit the living, making the offerings incentives for them to return and have some direct contact with the ones they left behind.

The rituals vary from region to region, with each area giving it its unique flavour and character, contrary to popular belief the day of the dead holiday is not just a Mexican tradition; happens all over the world. Celebrations take place in Europe, Latin America, Asia, even the United States and Canada. One of the most famous ones occur in Ocotepec, a small town in the state of Morelos, Mexico; where the whole town opens its doors to visitors in exchange of veladoras, small wax candles, as a way of showing respect to the recently dead. In return they receive tamales and atole.

One of the most common symbols of the holiday is the calavera, Spanish for skull. Usually appears in the shape of sugar or chocolate candies with the name of the recipient on the forehead, good enough for the living or the dead. Catrinas, female skeletons, appear everywhere fully dressed up in vintage Victorian or Empire outfits ready to dance and sing to the sound of traditional music. Another sweet side of the celebration is the, so-called, pan de muerto, dead bread; made out with sweetened egg and spices, usually in the shape of bones or corpses. People also compose small poems or songs called calaveritas normally associated with the living running into la Huesuda, a friendlier Mexican version of the Grimm reaper.

Contrary to what could be inferred by those not familiar to this holiday the fear of dying remains strong in the hearts and minds of most people. It is this same fear catalyzed in the form of a massive holiday what makes the Day of the Dead such a unique event; the comfort of knowing those departed may come back, even if its only for a few hours each year, eases the fear of leaving this life and entering the next. The irrevocable link between the underworld and our reality grows stronger as we remember our ancestors and beloved. What a better way to disguise this fear than with a journey full of jiggles, food, friends, family and good memories.